Tom Ford used his first fully-fledged men’s runway show in New York on Tuesday to unveil a debut underpants collection, bathe a Manhattan landmark in violet and give his classic suiting a Los Angeles twist.
It was a fall/winter 2018 collection of quintessential Tom Ford tailoring and statement sunglasses, offering the international jet-set a blend of James Bond, ski chic, London mod and California breeze.
His models strode out on a violet-carpeted runway at the Park Avenue Armory to the strains of Sting and Lana Del Rey, his Tobacco-Vanille fragrance hanging thick in the air and distributed as party favors at the end.
The 56-year-old, Texan-born, movie-making designer who told Women’s Wear Daily that he designs “for the hypothetical six-foot-three version of my 27-year-old self” sent out topless models in a dazzling array of silk, metallic and animal print briefs paired with socks.
Launching both the underwear and watches at his show, Ford described the former in his WWD interview as “very sexy” and “very real.”
Revealing that he had become a vegan and would limit his use of fur, there were drain-pipe style pants, eyes shielded by science-goggle and Bono-style yellow sunglasses.
Sportswear was referenced in hoodies, oversized bags and sneaker-style loafers. For evening wear, he offered metallic turtle necks, a sparkly blue snakeskin print jacket, or black and silver shimmering in the light.
There was pin stripe and tweed for the boardroom, and suits reimagined in the summery colors of pale yellow and delicate pink — a nod to European tradition given a very American, contemporary makeover.
The show comes a decade after the designer, who shot to fame at Gucci, launched his eponymous men’s label. Apart from a show to open his London store, he has previously done small men’s presentations.
Now based in Los Angeles, but having previously lived in London, Ford is best known for his sharp suits, which start at $5,000 off the rack.
“Living in Los Angeles is making my clothes, both men’s and women’s, more relevant,” he told WWD. “Much of the rest of the world, they want luxurious pieces but they are dressing in a more casual way.”
Men’s Fashion Week closes Wednesday. Ford will unveil his women’s fall/winter collection at the same Park Avenue Armory set Thursday.