Calvin Klein’s American dream, American nightmare

American dream met American nightmare at the hottest fashion ticket in New York Thursday as Raf Simons soaked up the love for his second outing at Calvin Klein, the iconic label he’s revamping to adulation.

In a nod to past and present, Cindy Crawford’s 16-year-old daughter Kaia Gerber, treading in the footsteps of her supermodel mother, made her runway debut for the 2018 collection, watched from the front row by Brooke Shields, the label’s most famous teen model in the 1980s.

Also watching was Paris Jackson, only daughter of Michael, and Oscar-winning actor Mahershala Ali, best known for Hollywood movie “Moonlight” about an African-American gay man growing up in Miami.

“There are no words to describe how I feel… I love you endlessly Raf!” tweeted Gerber after to her already 50,000 followers.

Calvin Klein was the most eagerly awaited event at a New York Fashion Week, which kicked off Thursday, but which critics worry is losing its luster as top talent defects to join what are frequently considered more creative and avant-garde juices flowing in Paris or London.

“It’s about American horror and American beauty,” said Simons, whom the label hired last year and in June became the first person since Klein himself to be honored by the Council of Fashion Designers of America as best women’s and menswear designer in one year.

“Fashion tries to hide the horror and embrace only beauty. But they are both a part of life. This collection is a celebration of that: a celebration of American life,” he added.

The inspiration, so said the Belgian, came from cinema — or more precisely — “the dream-factory of Hollywood and its depictions of both an American nightmare, and the all-powerful American dream.”

– Transgressive sexuality –

Considered one of the finest designers of his generation, the 49-year-old has the rare skill of preserving the unique DNA of Calvin Klein — its androgynous-style suiting in particular — and yet making it fresh.

Simons mimicked his first collection in February by again hosting the show at Calvin Klein’s headquarters in the Garment District.

The room was again decked out in artwork by Ruby Sterling this time entitled “Sophomore” — conjuring up the idea of a second iteration, “the idealized American teenager” and Americana. Jack-o-lanterns, pick axes and cheerleading pom-poms dangled from the ceiling.

It was naughty and nice; sexy and demur; dramatic and innocent; feminine and androgynous while remaining minimalist and urban.

Full-skirted, 1950s-style silhouettes were reimagined in nylon, rubber from Ohio — part of the decaying manufacturing heartland that voted for Donald Trump last year — and hand-painted leather.

There were nods to the label’s history of transgressive sexuality, plenty of orange, yellow, black and red, and a selection of prints from that most famous of American 20th century artists: Andy Warhol.

There were red patent leather cowboy boots, and matching pants and shirts worn together that created an elongated, seamless silhouette.

A red and white coat almost appeared almost blood-stained, a prom dress was fashioned in the black bin liner look and demure tight pencil skirts were sexed up with long burgundy latex gloves.

For the evening there were cheerleader’s pom pom-style tassel dresses that flounced with abandon as the model slinked down the catwalk, and exaggerated pom-pom style drooping bags.

Simons, who also has his own label, was previously best known for breathing life into Dior after John Galliano was fired in 2012 following an outcry over anti-Semitic insults he made in a Paris bar.

A silhouette of Shields, who modeled for Calvin Klein in the 1980s and famously uttered: “You wanna know what comes between me and my Calvin’s? Nothing” is stamped on the back of the label’s new jeans.

“It’s quite extraordinary,” she told Women’s Wear Daily. “I’m a fan.”

Quest for meaning

The other highlight of the day was rag and bone, the label co-founded by Britain’s Marcus Wainwright inspired this season by music festivals such as Glastonbury, the annual June fixture in southern England.

Eschewing the traditional runway, the label unveiled its collection with photographic portraits as the clothes hung on coat hangers.

“I don’t believe in the runway show anymore,” Wainwright told AFP.

“If I want to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to show you guys clothes, the question is ‘is the runway the best way?’ You see it but does the customer see it? Does it mean anything anymore?”

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0 Comments

  1. Avatar Wanjiku Njoki March 16th, 2013 at 3:51 pm

    raila unacheza na wakenya wacha kabisa hiyo tabia tunataka amani hila zako zimejulikana uhuru alipita meza wembe ulkua umechukua maelfu ya watu kupeleka makaratasi ni gorofa mulikuwa mwabeba koma natena ukome

    Reply
    1. Avatar MJOAN20 March 17th, 2013 at 12:25 am

      You are pathetic.

      Reply
  2. Avatar John Muchiri Mbicuria March 16th, 2013 at 5:11 pm

    We sympathize with you.but you have to look beyond you ambition.you can make a good prezzo but your advisors makes bad decisions which contributed to a two race horse,but all in all this is overtaken by events . The prezzo elect is extending an olive leave. Take it and you will grow old much to be a very respected man.
    What if you lose??which is likely, or you win the petition and lose the runoff which is obvious. The other side is doing campaign of showing their good side and telling all Kenyans they are ready for work.come runoff it will be you against the 14m plus registered voters
    It is very good to see your intention in getting justice and ensuring that all our institutions are answerable but you are holding Kenya on ransom.we need to move on. Be like moses of the Old Testament

    Reply
  3. Avatar Kevin March 16th, 2013 at 5:22 pm

    sure then…lets repeat the election and see where your numbers will appear from magically

    Reply
  4. Avatar Catherine Waweru March 16th, 2013 at 10:30 pm

    So if the court rules in his favor, who will run the repeat election? It wouldn’t be IEBC again because it would have found to be inept in this petition. This petition is a non-starter, IMO

    Reply
  5. Avatar Gabby March 16th, 2013 at 11:30 pm

    It must gall Raila to see Ruto as DP-elect on TV every day and even worse knowing well that the signage “Office of the Prime Minister” is coming down fast, Raila could not resist to do a hasty photo-op today behind the lectern emblazoned with the PM’s escutcheon right at the steps of the soon-to-be DP-elect’s office. Talk about rubbing salt onto a fresh wound. That move to get back at Nyachae and showing that he’s still in office legally was ill advised. Very kiddish……..

    Reply
  6. Avatar veronica March 17th, 2013 at 9:56 pm

    You cannot dictate what supreme court should do, they have their powers to rule the case either way.

    Reply

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